Abu Tor: Bridging divides in the heart of Jerusalem

 

Abu Tor is more than a neighborhood; it’s a microcosm of Jerusalem itself – a place where history, religion, and modern life intersect in complex and fascinating ways. 

By ALEX WINSTON DECEMBER 2, 2024 10:37

Looking east from Abu Tor to the breath-taking panoramas (photo credit: Marc Israel Sellem/Jerusalem Post)

Resting on a hill just south of Jerusalem’s Old City, Abu Tor is a neighborhood that embodies the complex layers of the city’s history, culture, and modern life. 

Known for its breathtaking views and a unique mix of Jewish and Arab residents, Abu Tor is more than just a place to live – it’s a reflection of Jerusalem’s vibrant and intricate makeup.

A hill with many names 

Abu Tor is steeped in legend, with its name alone a subject of fascination. In Arabic, it is called Deir Abu Thor (Monastery of the Bull Father) or al-Thawri, while Jews often refer to it as Givat Hananya.

According to Islamic tradition, the name originates from Ahmad al-Qudsi, a warrior in Saladin’s army who rode a bull and was granted this hill for his valor during the Crusades. 

Another version of the story suggests that Saladin’s military commander boasted he could conquer Jerusalem “even while riding a bull,” lending the area its name.

Sweeping vistas of the Old City, the Dome of the Rock, and Mount Zion (credit: Marc Israel Sellem/Jerusalem Post)

Christians associate Abu Tor with religious lore. Some traditions link it to the “Hill of Evil Counsel,” the site where Caiaphas, the high priest, plotted against Jesus. 

Over time, these layered identities have only deepened the neighborhood’s historical and cultural significance.

A divided history

Abu Tor’s story is inseparable from Jerusalem’s modern history. In the late 19th century, wealthy Arabs built elegant homes in the area, seeking to escape the crowded confines of the Old City. 

Around the same time, Jewish entrepreneur Yosef Navon established Beit Yosef, a Jewish neighborhood nearby. Though initially coexisting, tensions during the 1929 riots forced Jews to abandon Beit Yosef, and Arab families eventually occupied the deserted houses. Advertisement

During the British Mandate period, Abu Tor was incorporated into Jerusalem’s expanding municipal boundaries. However, it wasn’t until the 1948 War of Independence that Abu Tor’s fate was truly reshaped. 

---

---

The neighborhood became a battleground, with its upper section falling to Israeli forces and its lower slopes remaining under Jordanian control.

In January 1949, talks between Israel and Jordan took place regarding Jerusalem’s status, led by colonel Moshe Dayan on the Israeli side and major. 

Abdullah Tal of the Arab Legion. Dayan proposed a territorial exchange, which included the military post in Abu Tor, but the offer was rejected. 

For 19 years, Abu Tor was split by a no man’s land, its streets lined with barbed wire and rubble, creating a stark symbol of Jerusalem’s division.

During the 1967 Six Day War, Israeli forces secured the Arab-held section of Abu Tor, reuniting the neighborhood. 

Since then, the area has evolved into one of Jerusalem’s most sought-after addresses, blending the old with the new.

A view from the top

Abu Tor’s geography is one of its most defining features. Rising 777 meters above sea level, the neighborhood offers unrivaled views of Jerusalem. 

To the north, one can see the Old City’s golden Dome of the Rock and Mount Zion. To the east, the Judean Desert and the ancient landscapes of Edom and Moab unfold. 

To the south, the lush Jerusalem Peace Forest and the Sherover Promenade frame the horizon.

These vistas are not just a feast for the eyes but a constant reminder of the spiritual and historical significance of the land. 

It’s no surprise that Abu Tor has attracted residents from all walks of life, from diplomats and journalists to families seeking tranquility in the heart of a bustling city, appreciating the neighborhood’s coexistence model.

Living in Abu Tor today

The modern Jewish section of Abu Tor, often referred to as Givat Hananya, is an upscale area characterized by villas and stylish apartment complexes. 

Tree-lined streets, small parks, and private gardens give the neighborhood a serene charm. On the other hand, the Arab section retains a more traditional feel, with homes often built without formal planning regulations.

The Beit Nehemia community center serves as a hub for cultural and social activities, reflecting the neighborhood’s commitment to fostering community ties.

The neighborhood is also next to the (relatively) new Yes Planet cinema complex located just off Derech Hebron. 

The complex also contains many restaurants in addition to the cinema screens and is open on Shabbat to cater to the Arab residents, as well as secular Jewish ones.

The neighborhood’s population of approximately 12,000 residents reflects its diversity, with Jews and Arabs living in closer proximity than in many other parts of Jerusalem. 

However, this coexistence has not always been smooth. During periods of political tension, such as the First Intifada, incidents of vandalism and violence strained relations.

 Yet, Abu Tor remains a rare example of a mixed community, where daily life continues despite the complexities.

Historical treasures

Abu Tor is home to several historical and religious landmarks that highlight its multi-layered past.

At the summit of the hill stands a Greek Orthodox compound featuring the remains of a Byzantine church, believed to mark the site of Jesus’ trial before Pontius Pilate. Archaeological excavations have uncovered mosaic floors and artifacts from the Byzantine era, adding to the site’s significance.

Stone steps leading to religious sites and burial caves dating back to the Second Temple and Byzantine periods offer a glimpse into the lives of those who once called Abu Tor home.

ABU TOR’S duality is evident not just in its history but also in its present-day realities. 

While the Jewish section boasts polished architecture and landscaped streets, the Arab section struggles with fewer municipal services and unregulated construction. However, both communities share a deep connection to the neighborhood’s past and its unparalleled location.

In recent years, Abu Tor has become a magnet for foreign buyers drawn to its stunning views and proximity to Jerusalem’s cultural and spiritual heart. 

Properties range from modest apartments to luxury homes commanding premium prices, a testament to the neighborhood’s enduring appeal.

Abu Tor is more than a neighborhood; it’s a microcosm of Jerusalem itself – a place where history, religion, and modern life intersect in complex and fascinating ways. 

Walking its streets, one can feel the echoes of ancient battles, the solemnity of religious traditions, and the quiet hum of a community striving to find harmony.

For visitors and residents alike, Abu Tor offers a unique window into the soul of Jerusalem, where every corner tells a story, and every view inspires awe.