Asif Culinary Institute: Using food's 'incredible power to heal' during Israel's war

Asif recognized that food could also be a form of healing. “We connected people through food, one kitchen at a time.”

By NERIA BARR NOVEMBER 30, 2024 22:32

CHEF DUTY: Cooking for combat soldiers while supporting the restaurant industry (photo credit: Haim Yefim Barbalat)

As a result of Israel’s recent conflicts, countless families have been forced from their homes, leaving behind routines, comforts, and the stability of daily life. 

Each day has brought new uncertainty and trauma as families seek refuge in unfamiliar places, clinging to a sense of normalcy amid the turmoil.

For many, a warm meal has become a poignant reminder of what they had left behind – a small comfort in a sea of upheaval. 

Rising to meet this need is the Asif: Culinary Institute of Israel in Tel Aviv, led by its dedicated CEO, Chico Menashe.

Founded in 2021 by Na’ama Shefi as a joint venture between the New York-based Jewish Food Society and Israeli Start-Up Nation Central, Asif is a nonprofit organization and culinary center dedicated to cultivating and nurturing Israel’s diverse and creative food culture.

(credit: Haim Yefim Barbalat)

However, following Hamas’s mega-atrocity on October 7, 2023, it transformed into a lifeline, providing not just nourishment but also community, connection, and hope. 

“As soon as the war broke out, requests for hot meals began trickling in,” recalls the 46-year-old Menashe. “What started as a small effort quickly grew into something far greater than any of us expected.” An initial goal of providing 50 meals a day soon escalated to 1,500 meals daily within the first week.

 These meals have become essential not only for evacuees but also for homebound individuals who can no longer rely on their regular caregivers.

With unwavering dedication, Asif’s team – which includes some of Israel’s top chefs – showed up daily from Sunday to Friday, cooking and delivering meals across multiple cities. 

Over three months, Asif became a beacon of comfort for thousands. However, beyond the meals, recipients longed for something more personal. “They were grateful,” Menashe says, “but many missed their kitchens and the familiar act of cooking for loved ones.”

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Moved by this, Menashe, a noted journalist and native of Jerusalem, launched a unique initiative to bridge the gap: Asif began pairing Tel Aviv residents willing to open their kitchens with evacuees eager to cook. Initially a small pilot project, it expanded to more cities, such as Jerusalem, Tiberias, and Netanya. 

“We became matchmakers,” Menashe says, smiling. “We connected people through food, one kitchen at a time.”

This collaboration offered evacuees a sense of independence – a way to regain control and reclaim a piece of the life they had been forced to leave behind. 

Hosts and evacuees bonded over shared meals, kindling a sense of community and belonging. For Asif, these connections held deep meaning, symbolizing the resilience and strength at the heart of Israeli culture.

A flourishing initiative 

AS THE initiative grew, Asif realized it was witnessing a living archive of Israel’s culinary heritage in times of conflict. Families shared treasured recipes, passed down through generations. 

Asif began documenting these stories, adding them to its culinary archive on its website. 

“People from all over Israel shared family recipes,” Menashe recounts, “from dishes created in small towns to flavors spanning continents, uniting people around food and history.”

Each recipe was tested and photographed in Asif’s professional kitchen, becoming part of a collection celebrating the diversity and resilience of Israeli cuisine. 

Some dishes also made it onto Asif’s menu, offering a taste of history. This collection evolved into a public exhibition, where visitors could experience the richness of Israel’s food heritage firsthand.

As Asif’s efforts continued, Menashe received an unexpected call from the Doktor brothers, owners of the Tel Aviv restaurant Ha’achim, who had converted their 930 square meter space into a hub for preparing and distributing hot meals to soldiers and families affected by the war.

Eager to expand their project, they reached out to Menashe for collaboration. 

Menashe then contacted the head of the Israeli military’s food services division, ensuring that all aid met the army’s standards and needs. He soon realized the powerful impact these meals had on morale.

“In the first months of the war,” says Menashe, “we wanted to support restaurant owners during a time when restaurants were closed, and they were out of work. 

Restaurant teams had lost their jobs, and income was nonexistent. We invited them to bring their recipes and staff, provided kitchen spaces and supplies, and paid them for their work.”

Collaborating with the Southern and later Northern Commands, Asif coordinated meal deliveries to soldiers on both fronts, ensuring safety and quality with controlled transport. 

“Through this partnership with the army, we invited teams from dozens of restaurants to cook 800 meals daily – 400 for the southern border and 400 for the northern border. Philanthropic funds covered the chefs’ wages, raw ingredients, and transportation of meals to the front lines,” he explains.

Using food for healing 

Beyond sustenance, Asif recognized that food could also be a form of healing. With this in mind, Asif launched therapeutic cooking workshops for evacuees in the culinary center’s fourth-floor space. 

Led by celebrated Israeli chefs, these workshops provide a safe place for evacuees to cook, share stories, and reconnect with a sense of normalcy. 

Week after week, evacuees have gathered for these free sessions – cooking, conversing, and rediscovering the joy of preparing a meal together.

Menashe describes the workshops as transformative: “They became places of connection. People could open up, share experiences, and find a small slice of home away from home.” 

These workshops have not only helped evacuees rebuild their spirits but also have fostered lasting bonds between chefs, participants, and the community.

DURING VISITS to military bases, Menashe often spoke with soldiers who voiced concerns about loved ones at home. 

Many expressed a need to support their families, feeling helpless, given their responsibilities on the front lines. 

Touched by their stories, Menashe developed an initiative to uplift the families of reservists. Partnering with local guides and small businesses, Asif organized culinary tours called Marching on Their Stomachs” for soldiers’ spouses, providing them with a brief respite from daily challenges.

Launched only a couple of months ago, nearly 4,000 women from across the country have already participated, says Menashe proudly. “It’s important to note that they participate at no cost, thanks to donations collected for this initiative, which will continue into 2025.”

'The first time they felt cared for'

Held in bustling markets across Israel, these tours allow families to explore Israel’s rich food scene and take a break from their worries. “After weeks at home, many told us it was the first time they felt cared for,” Menashe says. 

“They could step out, enjoy a meal, and feel the warmth of community support.” These tours provide a much-needed escape and support local markets and small businesses struggling in the wake of the crisis.

Adi Rosen, owner of Culinary Story (Sipur Culinari) in Netiv Ha’asara, is among the guides in the new project. A mother of three, she has been unable to return home since the October 7 massacre. Rosen, who specializes in culinary tours in southern Israel, says her mission is “to showcase the region’s beauty and foster love and empathy through food and storytelling.”

Despite ongoing security challenges, her tours in Sderot, Netivot, Ashdod, Ashkelon, and Kiryat Malachi have resumed, drawing visitors eager to support the area. 

The Marching on Their Stomachs project resonates deeply with her, as her husband has been on reserve duty since the war began. She finds joy in giving mothers a chance to recharge while helping local businesses recover. 

Participants’ heartfelt feedback underscores the importance of these experiences for the community and business owners alike.

The reactions, Rosen says, are touching. “Participants are so grateful to Asif and the donors for the chance to take a moment for themselves – to breathe, enjoy, and just be. They can step away from caregiving and simply recharge.”

Through each initiative, Asif provides more than meals – it nourishes the soul of Israel, weaving a tapestry of connection and resilience that has helped carry people through their darkest days. 

From home-cooked meals to therapeutic workshops, from feeding soldiers to comforting evacuees, Asif uses food to heal, bridge divides, and rebuild communities.

“Food has an incredible power to heal,” reflects Menashe. “In every meal shared, every recipe preserved, and every connection made, we see firsthand the strength that can come from something as simple as cooking together.”■

To learn more about Asif, go to asif.org/en.