Dolphin Yam, former seafood dining icon, goes kosher

Owners Yonatan Cohen and Eyal Dolev say the decision to become kosher was purely personal.

By LINDA GRADSTEIN JANUARY 26, 2025 18:06

Dolphin Yam. (photo credit: ASSAF KERALA)

Dolphin Yam has been around since 1967 (almost as long as I’ve been around!), but I bet that most of my readers haven’t eaten there. That’s because until a few weeks ago, it was not kosher and served seafood seven days a week.

Owners Yonatan Cohen and Eyal Dolev say the decision to become kosher was purely personal. Cohen, who has three young daughters, simply wants to spend Shabbat with them.

“When I locked the door [of the restaurant] last Friday for the first time and went home, it was an amazing feeling,” he said.

Dolev, the son-in-law of the restaurant’s founder, agrees.

“Until now, my wife and children went to my parents’ for Kiddush every Friday night because I was always here at the restaurant,” he said. “Yes, we were packed on Fridays and Saturdays, and we made a lot of money, but some things are worth more than money.”

Dolphin Yam. (credit: ASSAF KERALA)

The decision to turn kosher has sparked a sharp debate on foodie websites, as it’s being taken as a symbol of the greater “haredization” of Jerusalem. Some questioned why they didn’t stay open but just hire a manager to work on Shabbat.

Cohen said he believes in being hands-on and doesn’t trust anyone to do the same kind of job he would do.

Another reason for turning kosher, said Dolev, is related to the war.

“I would read Facebook posts about single mothers who lost their sons fighting, and I wanted to send them food, but I couldn’t because we weren’t kosher,” he said. “So I’d buy food from kosher restaurants owned by friends and donate it. But now I can send my own food.”

The décor in the old stone building in the center of downtown Jerusalem is lovely, with its white tablecloths and a bar in the center of the room. A special ramp makes the downstairs area wheelchair accessible, although the owners ask patrons to inform the restaurant in advance if the ramp is required. The second floor can also be used for events of up to 50 people; but for personal dining, I recommend asking for a table downstairs.

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Turning kosher has brought a completely different clientele, Cohen noted.

“For more than 50 years, we served the secular public,” he said. “Now we can host everyone, which is a great feeling.”

My husband, Cliff, and I visited on a Thursday night, and the joint was jumping. I highly recommend making a reservation.

We began our meal with cocktails. I had a daiquiri which was good, but Cliff won the cocktail battle with an amaretto sour with a smoking cinnamon stick. (I’m thinking of going back tonight just for that drink!)

I went with fish for an appetizer and meat for a main course, while my husband did the opposite. I actually tried two appetizers – the bouillabaisse (NIS 48), a tomato-based soup that is usually made with seafood; and the grouper carpaccio (NIS 62). The soup was nicely flavored, but the carpaccio was outstanding – incredibly fresh fish along with pieces of grapefruit and spicy red pepper that gave the dish a little kick.

Cliff went with the rump steak yakitori with shimeji mushrooms. Not a large portion, it was made with homemade teriyaki sauce and nicely spiced.

For the main course, my husband had a platter of three different grilled fish fillets (NIS 146), while I had the 300-gr. entrecote steak (NIS 168). He chose to be virtuous, ordering grilled vegetables as his side dish, while I threw caution to the wind and went with the French fries. I think he knew he’d inherit at least some of those French fries, which he did.

Excellent dishes

Both dishes were excellent. His salmon fillet was crispy on the outside and soft on the inside, and my steak was a perfect medium rare, with a nice chew on the meat and a beefy flavor.

Then came the best part. Standing next to the table was my son Netanel (often my partner in crime on my food adventures), who just a few hours earlier had been in Lebanon and wasn’t supposed to come home that weekend. He is doing his third stint of reserve duty since the war began.

Still in his uniform and carrying his gun, he hadn’t even gone home to shower. I hadn’t seen him in almost a month. I let out a little scream (not as loud as when he came back from Gaza, but almost) and threw my arms around him.

Dolev insisted that he sit down to eat, which initially he politely declined, but then quickly gave in. A few minutes later, a huge hamburger arrived at the table, with onion rings and avocado.

“OMG, this is so good,” he said, his mouth stuffed with hamburger. I was amazed at how quickly that burger disappeared.

The woman at the next table leaned over to him.

“I’m not sure what you do in the army, but whatever it is, thank you so much,” she said.

Overall, this was a wonderful evening at a special restaurant. I highly recommend it. If you like a good deal, there is a business lunch from noon to 5 p.m. that offers 10% off the menu and a free appetizer of bread and dips.

• Dolphin Yam
• 9 Shimon Ben-Shetach Street
• Hours: Sunday-Thursday, noon- 11 p.m.; Friday, noon until an hour before Shabbat; Saturday, open one hour after Shabbat
• Phone: (02) 623-2272
• Kashrut: Rabbanut Jerusalem. The meat is chalak

The writer was a guest of the restaurant.