London institution Motcombs has opened on St. John’s Wood

Motcombs has been a destination for the well-heeled in exclusive Belgravia for more than 40 years.

Opened in the 1980’s by Philip Lawless (a former manager of equally upscale Scott’s of Mount Street) the restaurant has carved out a reputation as a prestigious celebrity hotspot.
Lawless passed the baton to current owners Ross Anderson and his wife Jax in 2017 and the pair recently opened a sister site for the OG in equally luxe St. John’s Wood.
Motcombs number two is on Circus Road, close to the top of St. John’s Wood High Street on the site of the old Richoux. Like its sibling, the vibe is welcoming not stuffy, and the dining room, decorated in warm tones felt especially cosy on the stormy December evening I visited, with with Storm Darragh doing his worst outside.

The seasonal menu, created by head chefs Rafal Nowack and Veronica Pestana, features an eclectic mix of Italian and British cuisine, from vodka penne (with tomato, cream and chilli) and truffle pizza to fennel salmon and golden beer-battered cod.

After settling into a snug corner table, I sipped a delightfully tart and sweet pear martini while nibbling on warm sourdough.

Perhaps I am too much of a cheese fanatic to notice that I’d ordered the two most cheese-heavy starters on the menu, but, as the song goes, I regret nothing. Truffle honey burrata with roasted beetroots was rich, creamy, flavoured ever so subtly by truffle honey and a drizzle of olive oil and given a bit of texture by the crunchy beetroot base.

Warm goat’s cheese salad with hazelnuts and rocket was another treat, devoured even by my salad-hating partner, whom I’d never seen shovelling in rocket with such gusto. 

Hyper-attentive staff kept an eye out to ensure our glasses were never empty, and the helpful GM Michael selected a smooth 2023 pinot noir for us to enjoy with our main course.

The wonderfully autumnal pan-fried sea bass sat on a sweet and richly spiced pumpkin puree, salsify, and roasted leeks. Dover sole was tender and buttery with zingy side of tenderstem broccolini with chili and ginger.

Desserts did not disappoint. A hot baked chocolate chip cookie was loaded with melting dark chocolate and a side of salted caramel ice cream satisfied our sweet toothed cravings, but the real winner was the green cardamom crème brûlée with macerated tangerine and elderflower syrup. I’d never tasted anything quite like the rich, cardamom-scented custard perfectly paired with elderflower-steeped tangerines. 

The restaurant is open all day – from eight until midnight — making it  worth looking up for the extensive breakfast menu which evokes memories of Richoux. 
For an exceptional meal in a warm, inviting setting at a price moderate for the quality, Motcombs is a winner. St. John’s Wood is lucky to have it.

Motcombs