London’s second favourite Christmas sandwich is Jew-ish

Christmas sandwiches don’t often make it into The JC. So it’s news when London listings magazine, Time Out picks a Jew-ish deli’s offering as it’s second favourite festive sando .

The Chrismukkah inspired challah-based ‘Gobbler’ is the invention of Ashkenazi food fan and self-taught chef, Ollie Gratter.
North-west London born and bred Gratter — who has been popping up all over London with his NY deli-style sandwiches and bagels (non-kosher) and who can count David Baddiel and celeb chef, John Torode as fans — has beaten a host of contenders for the bready recognition.

The Gobbler — described as ‘absolutely audacious’ by the reviewer — mashes up the two festivals, incorporating classic components from both.

In the Jewish corner, there’s challah, gherkins, a bread sauce made from New York rye bread flecked with caraway seeds and even a crisp root vegetable latke — which Gratter fries in shmaltz.

Flying the flag for Christmas are a mulled wine chutney and pulled turkey pastrami. The pastrami layered with a spicy cheese and pickle-packed relish is schmeared over the challah which is where kosher keepers will definitely be checking out. But it’s going down a storm in Peckham.

Gratter, who is one of the young chefs breathing new life into old Jewish deli classics, will be serving his sando at The Old Nun’s Head in Nunhead — near Peckham.

The combination may not be for everyone, but blending traditional English favourite flavours like mulled wine and turkey with Jewish favourite latkes is in keeping with the chefs of the modern diaspora who’ve been playing free with Sephardi flavours for years.

And with the seasonal treat, Gratter, who says he is more culturally Jewish than religious is Gratter’s way of sharing a few Ashkenazi soul foods with south-east London.

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