Lovely Luxembourg City

Luxembourg City is a gloriously compact and walkable city of multi-levels, mermaids and meanderings, with a rich Jewish history to uncover. For a capital city, it is also a phenomenon of natural beauty.

A series of rivers, valleys, promontories and gorges mean that the people, buildings and powerhouses adapt to a city carved out by nature, creating upper and lower levels to investigate.

Funiculars, walkways, bridges and free elevators are in place to facilitate movement and exploration for locals and tourists alike. The Pfaffenthal is the most iconic elevator, connecting the “high rise” city centre to the Pfaffenthal area at the bottom of the Alzette valley. The free ride in the glass cabin offers a breathtaking view up to 71m high. At the top, stand on a glass platform to stare down at diminutive houses and figures below.

Reaching Luxembourg’s striking MUDAM (Museum of Modern Art Grand-Duc Jean) is another heightened experience. Cross the Passerelle des Arts walkway, which straddles the Trois Glands state forest and takes pedestrians on a vertiginous stroll though the canopy. To reach the city’s renowned Old Town (the Grund) hop aboard the Plateau du Saint-Esprit public elevator and descend downtown. This historic district has been recognised as a Unesco World Heritage Site since 1994. Its beauty can also be appreciated by wandering along the “Corniche”, dubbed “the most beautiful balcony of Europe”.

The Grund is the place to hunt down the striking vibrant pink mermaid Melusina sitting on the banks of the Alzette River, a statue created by Luxembourg artist Serge Ecker. Produced by 3D printing and installed in 2015, it tells the story of Count Siegfried, who founded the city of Luxembourg in 963. In the legend he married the beautiful Melusina, agreeing to her one marital condition of absolute privacy every Saturday.

After years of happiness, curiosity led the count to break his promise. When he spied on Mesulina he spotted her fishtail. The spell and the marriage were over.

Alongside Luxembourg’s magic, legends, natural beauty and historic renown, this is a city with strong Jewish links. At the start of the Second World War Luxembourg had a community of around 4,000 Jews who were swiftly targeted after the Nazi invasion on May 10, 1940. Heroes emerged, such as Chief Rabbi Serebrenik, who helped hundreds of Jews flee the country. After being nearly beaten to death in May 1941, he too escaped with his family, to New York, where he founded the Congregation Ramath Orah.

Luxembourg’s liberation finally came on September 8, 1944 and its main shul can be found on Avenue Monterey. Dedicated on June 28, 1953, it was one of the first synagogues in Europe to be rebuilt after the war and also houses the Jewish community’s offices.

To uncover more of the city’s Jewish history take a free tour.  A popular option is the Wenzel Walk, taking in 1,000 years of history in 180 minutes, but it’s worth considering the two-hour self-guided Shoah Memorial Trail which begins at the central railway station where seven deportations took place between October 1941 and June 1943. Next, walkers are guided to the former Jewish school on Boulevard de la Pétrusse, via the Old Synagogue site, and the tour ends at the thought-provoking Kaddish Monument, which is the city’s memorial for Shoah victims, inaugurated on June 17, 2018. The grey-pink granite sculpture is the work of artist Shelomo Selinger, who personally survived nine concentration camps and two death marches. The monument stands in pride of place next to the grand Notre Dame Cathedral, and metres away from Gëlle Fra, the city’s symbol of the freedom and resistance of the Luxembourg. Descend the steps into Vallée de Pétrusse to meander among the park’s maze of paths, rock formations and thick trees. Admittedly, the calm may be interrupted by stumbling upon the unexpectedly cool Pétrusse skatepark with its jaw-dropping backdrop of the Passerelle Viaduct towering overhead. Visitors won’t cease to be surprised how Luxembourgers plan, create and adapt to the deep valleys and natural terrain that they live within.

A final unmissable attraction is the Bock Casemates, revealing that Luxembourg’s inhabitants don’t just work around the formidable rock formations, they tunnel into them. This defence system was carved under the Bock fortress that was built by Count Siegfried in the 10th century. The casemates originally made up of approximately 23 kilometres of tunnels, bored into the rock in the 17th century under Spanish rule.

Today, the cannons peppered around the peep holes give great vistas over the city.

After a day’s sightseeing consider some of Luxembourg’s food and drink options institutions. Pop champagne corks at Flûtes Alors! and eat cake at Kaale Kaffi. For traditional Luxembourg cuisine, make it classic Um Dierfgen or contemporary Brasserie du Cercle (vegetarian options available at both). Once refuelled, it’s time to get walking again.

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Getting There

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V Hotel Vauban in the heart of Luxembourg City has 17 guest room and four suites including a one-bedroom apartment that sleeps four: hotelvauban.lu

v Direct flights to Luxembourg depart from Manchester and London airports

v The Shoah Memorial Trail can be found at luxembourg-city.com/en/place/tour/shoah-

v All of Luxembourg’s public transport is free

For more info: visitluxembourg.com