Miznon review: A perfect pocketful of Tel Aviv in Soho

There are certain pockets of London in which I feel at home. One is my flat, another is the queue for Beigel Bake at 3am on a Friday night, another is when I speak to the Israeli guy in the farmers market near my house who makes falafel (@falafelerez, look him up). These places are familiar and comforting because they allow me to relax, to drop my guard, to feel like I belong.

Miznon, by the charismatic whirlwind of a chef that is Eyal Shani is another one of these places. Visiting the Soho branch, just off Tottenham Court Road, it feels like stepping into a cozy spot in Tel Aviv just off Rothschild. The vibe, like all the best Israeli places is casual. You’re encouraged to help yourself to the mounds of pillowy pitta bread and tahina, and, sitting at the cozy tables, the sound of the kitchen are amplified to give the feeling you’re sitting in a market in Israel, not a stones throw from the West End.
 

The concept of Miznon is simple. Take as many delicious things as you can find, inspired by the local cuisine, and shove them in a thick, fresh-baked pitta. It’s a formula that has worked well for Shani who has taken the Miznon brand all over the world. A map in the back of the soho location shows Miznons in Australia, Singapore and Vegas, among others.

In Soho, the smaller of the two London branches, the British inspiration is clear to see. Shani’s take on fish and chips, a spicy, crispy, vinegary masterpiece is more Bat Yam than Blackpool, but it’s a triumph all the same. He also has maybe the most refined kebab in Soho, again wrapped in the best pitta in central London and washed down with an assortment of Israeli-inspired cocktails (most of which contain Arak.)

But Miznon is about more than just the food or the (very good) vibes, it’s food with heart. I visited Miznon with my sister, who was serving in the IDF until recently and left Israel just before October 7. She instantly bonded with the Israeli waitress and chef, all of whom engaged in a cathartic venting that diaspora Israelis will know only too well, especially since last year. Over shots of Israeli Arak, they talked and bitched and embraced, all five minutes away from the scenes of protests that have marred London’s streets for the best part of a year.

Miznon is an Oasis for Israelis, but it’s also a great place to eat. It does simple food well. For a reasonable price, in a way that makes you keep coming back. For anyone that has ever been to Israel, it feels like the best of the Jewish state. And it’s right in Soho.