Tel Aviv’s Qumran restaurant: A feast for the senses

Tel Aviv’s Qumran offers kosher dining with Michelin-star quality and a dreamlike Mediterranean atmosphere.

By NERIA BARR NOVEMBER 30, 2024 12:22

(photo credit: ASAF KARELA)

Dining at Qumran is less about savoring a quiet meal and more about immersing yourself in a sensory escapade that fuses haute kosher cuisine with a flair for the theatrical.

I usually prefer earlier dining hours, but at Qumran the enchantment doesn’t truly begin until after 9 p.m. That’s when the tranquil, cave-like setting transforms into a pulsating spectacle of music, dance, and, yes, fire performers who light up the night in more ways than one.

The experience begins the moment you cross Qumran’s grand entrance.

 Imagine stepping into a Mediterranean fantasy – complete with subdued lighting, plush décor, and a central bar that takes up most of the main area.

More than a visual centerpiece, the bar is a stage for talented mixologists who create cocktails as bold as the ambiance. 

(credit: ASAF KARELA)

Whether you sip a signature drink to kick off the evening or let it accompany the entertainment, this is more than dining; it’s an escape. 

The bar, as we discovered later, is also where other surprises come to light.

Behind the scenes is chef Moshik Roth, whose culinary prestige includes earning two Michelin stars at his Amsterdam fine-dining restaurant &Moshik. 

Now back in Israel and one of the judges on the TV hit show The Chefs’ Games, he brings his creative flair to kosher cuisine, challenging conventions while celebrating the bold, warm flavors of the Mediterranean.

What's on the menu? 

The menu at Qumran is a showcase of Roth’s ingenuity. We began with Jerusalem artichoke tortellini, with pkeilka and beurre blanc sauce (NIS 116), a dish where earthy artichoke and the classic non-dairy beurre blanc-style sauce were simply out of this world.

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We wanted some greens, so we asked for the leaves salad with grilled almonds and pear vinaigrette. It was a very large portion, one I would serve at home for four people, but it was so delicious.

The second starter was the better of the two – beef tartare taco. It was a brilliant dish, served on a plate filled with uncooked black beans that allowed the three tacos to stay in place. 

Stuffed with aioli, capers, shallots, egg yolk cream, and chopped chives, it was as ingenious as it was original and tasty. My dining partner, a meat lover, enjoyed every bite (NIS 109).

For the main event, my meat-loving partner really wanted to taste the special cut from Holstein beef (NIS 98 for 100 grams). 

Indeed, the beef cut, served on a butcher’s block with grilled vegetables and potatoes, was the best you can get. 

Altogether, the meat dishes are among the best you can find in Israel, perfectly cooked and presented with all the finesse you’d expect from a top-tier kosher restaurant.

While the beef was our star, fish lovers can revel in dishes like Yellowtail sashimi (NIS 158) or crispy grouper cubes (NIS 246), both highly praised and perfect for sharing.

Then came the desserts, a realm where Roth doesn’t hold back. The dark chocolate mousse, adorned with halva crumble and pistachio dust, redefines decadence with its rich textures and Mediterranean flair. 

If citrus is more your style, the citrus tart balances tangy and sweet with precision, offering a refreshing finale to a hearty meal. 

Both desserts are a testament to the kitchen’s ability to surprise and delight.

However, it’s the atmosphere that truly sets Qumran apart. By the time dessert arrives, the dining room has morphed into a scene straight out of a Middle Eastern dream, complete with one dancer twirling atop the bar and another swinging overhead. 

While the scene occasionally teeters on the edge of theatrical excess, the sheer joy it sparks and the opportunity to forget where you really are is undeniable.

All of this spectacle comes at a price. If you decide to have two starters, one main dish, and one dessert, with two glasses of wine or a cocktail, it will come to about NIS 250 to NIS 350 per person, but what you’re paying for is more than a meal. 

It’s a whole evening – a story, a celebration, and an experience like no other I have seen. 

Perfect for special nights when a little drama feels just right, Qumran offers a very different kosher dining experience.

Whether you go there for the food, the ambiance, or the opportunity to escape reality for a few hours, Qumran delivers a Med feast for the senses. 

Just be prepared for a splash of spectacle with your dinner – it’s all part of the charm.

QumranPlatinum Tower, 2nd Floor 21 HaArba’a St., Tel Aviv-JaffaTel: (03) 919-1555Kosher 

The writer was a guest of Qumran.